Clean beauty has shifted the way we think about skincare. It’s no longer just about what’s left out – it’s about understanding what goes in, where it comes from, and how it actually works for your skin.
But when it comes to ingredient lists, things can quickly feel confusing. Humectants, emollients and occlusives are the three main types of moisturizing agents, but what do these terms really mean, and how do they support your skin?
To help break it down, we’ve invited expert Christine Dunn to share her insights, so you can find the right moisturizer and achieve that healthy, supple glow.
What Do Moisturizers Do?
Moisturizers are topical products designed to support the skin’s moisture balance.
By combining different ingredients, a well-crafted formula can improve the appearance of flaky or rough texture, leaving it soft and visibly renewed. Moisturizers can also benefit oily and combination skin by helping to maintain suppleness without adding excess oil, which supports a more balanced-looking complexion.
They typically rely on a blend of humectants, emollients, and occlusives to quench, smooth, and support the skin barrier.
What is a Humectant?
A humectant is a type of skincare ingredient that attracts and retains water in the skin, helping to keep it moisturized and dewy.
If your skin is appearing a little parched and dull, it’s often a sign it needs more moisture – this is where a humectant comes in.
Christine Dunn explains: “A humectant is an ingredient that can facilitate skin moisture by attracting water from the surrounding environment, for example, hyaluronic acid.”
It’s best to think of them as a magnet – they draw moisture into the top layer of the skin, helping to plump the surface and create a dewy appearance.
- Urea
- Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Propylene glycol
- Sorbitol
- Hyaluronic Acid
What Is an Occlusive
While humectants draw moisture into the skin, occlusives help lock moisture in by forming a protective barrier.
According to Christine Dunn: “An occlusive is a general term for an ingredient that seals the surface of the skin and acts as an effective barrier, protecting and guarding from water evaporation.”
She also notes that these ingredients are widely misunderstood. Many occlusives are non-comedogenic and beneficial for the skin and should not be confused with ‘pore-occlusive’ ingredients, which can clog pores.
When a reputable brand describes a product as ‘non-occlusive’, it is typically referring to the absence of pore-clogging ingredients.
- Petrolatum
- Mineral Oil
- Squalene
- Dimethicone
- Coconut oil
- Castor oil
- Argan oil
- Jojoba oil
- Lanolin
- Beeswax
Shea butter (also an emollient)
What Is an Emollient?
These components help soften the skin and refine texture by filling in gaps between skin cells, creating a smoother, more even-looking finish.
“An emollient is usually a lipid-based ingredient that facilitates the spread of a formulation upon application, while also softening the skin’s surface,” Christine shares. “Emollients can help reduce the tight feeling of dry skin.”
- Squalane
- Rosehip Oil
- Jojoba Oil (also an occlusive)
- Cocoa Butter
- Shea butter (also an occlusive)
- Ceramides
Occlusives vs Emollients vs Humectants
Occlusives, emollients and humectants each play a distinct role in keeping skin moisturized and healthy. Here’s how they compare:
| Category | Function | Skin Type |
| Occlusives | Seal in moisture by forming a barrier to help prevent water loss. | Dry to very dry skin. |
| Emollients | Smooth and soften the skin. | Dry skin or a rough-feeling texture. |
| Humectants | Attract moisture to the surface. | All skin types. |
The most effective skincare rituals embrace all three. As Christine explains, using a combination of occlusives, emollients and humectants helps support overall skin quality:
“In general, they protect the skin barrier and maintain ideal skin moisturization. They help reduce chronic dryness, smooth the appearance of lines and wrinkles, and calm and soothe the skin.”
